Recording routes on a motorcycle

Why riders record routes

On a motorcycle, the route often matters more than the destination. A good sequence of corners, a coastal road, a misty mountain pass — these are things you want to find again. A recorded route makes that possible.

Beyond that there are three practical benefits. On group rides it is easier to confirm everyone took the same roads. On long tours, past data gives you a realistic sense of daily distance and break patterns. And when you share afterwards, a route drawing completes the story in a way a photograph cannot.

Mounting and vibration

The most common mistake is bolting the phone rigidly to the handlebars. Engine vibration, particularly on single and twin-cylinder bikes, is high-frequency and can permanently damage the optical image stabilisation in a phone camera.

• Use a vibration damper. A rubber isolator between mount and bar reduces the risk substantially.
• Secure but not crushed. The phone must not fly out, but the case should not be squeezed either.
• Consider a mirror mount. Mounts attached to the mirror stem usually transmit less vibration than bar mounts.
• Keep it out of your sightline. Position the phone where a glance reaches it without blocking your view of the road.

Alternatively, keep the phone in a pocket or a tank bag. Recording runs in the background so you do not need to see the screen, and this removes both the vibration risk and the theft risk entirely.

Rain, dust and temperature

Most modern phones have some water resistance, but that rating was not designed for raindrops hitting at motorway speed. Pressurised water can find its way past seals.

• Use a waterproof case. Clear-window mount cases still allow touch input.
• Touchscreens fail in rain. Capacitive screens misread when wet, which is exactly why starting the recording before the rain does matters.
• Keep it shaded in heat. In midsummer a phone in direct sun can overheat and dim its screen to protect itself. Recording usually continues, but it is a risk worth avoiding.
• Cold drains batteries faster. Lithium capacity drops at low temperatures, so carry a power source on winter tours.

Charging and battery

Continuous GPS recording consumes a lot of battery on a long tour. On a motorcycle the usual answer is a USB outlet wired to the bike.

1. Fit a fused USB socket. Anything wired directly to the battery should go through a relay so the battery does not drain with the ignition off.
2. Route the cable so it does not restrict steering or pull tight at full lock.
3. Alternatively use a power bank. No installation needed, but make sure the cable cannot flap loose in the wind.
4. Keep the screen off. Recording continues in the background and consumption drops noticeably.

Pre-ride checklist

• Location permission set to Always with Precise Location on?
• Phone charged, and a power source ready?
• Mount solid, damper fitted?
• Waterproof case packed if rain is likely?
• Offline maps downloaded if coverage will be poor?
• Recording started while the bike was stationary?

After the ride: reading the data

When you stop recording you will have a route line, distance, timings, speed figures and elevation. On motorcycle tours two numbers usually matter most.

Total climb describes the real character of a route better than distance. A hundred flat kilometres and a hundred kilometres over a mountain pass are completely different experiences, and elevation is what separates them.

The gap between moving time and total time reveals your break pattern. When planning the next tour, that figure gives you a realistic daily range.

In Rovia these are calculated automatically when the ride ends and can be turned into a share card with the route drawing included. On group rides you can add your friends and compare weekly distances.

A safety note

Frequently asked questions